IN OLD-WORLD ESSEX - 1 of 3
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IN OLD-WORLD ESSEX
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Few cyclists know how old-world the neglected county of Essex really is.
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So unknown is this part of eastern England that its ill-earned reputation for flatness and want of interest has lasted since the first guide-book writer made the initial mis-statement until the present day.
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A great gulf separates the West-Ender and the Central Londoner from Essex ; a gulf filled with crowded streets and rendered dangerous to the cyclist by the granite setts and tram-lines that characterise the main roads leading from Whitechapel to Bow, Stra...
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Nor do railways afford so ready a means of intercourse between east and west as could be desired.
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For the sake, however, of seeing what kind of country this may be, let us, greatly daring, get on to the Great Eastern Railway at Liverpool Street, and take train to Chadwell Heath, following the course indicated by the sketch map.
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This gives a run of a little over twenty miles, and shows Essex in its most characteristic vein.
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Gaining the main road to Romford from Chadwell Heath Station, we follow it for three-quarters of a mile,turning off to the left where a sign-post points the way to Havering-atte-Bower, along a good-surfaced, sandy lane.
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Here we come immediately to pretty, pastoral country, with spreading views in every direction across the many-patterned fields.
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Away, four miles to the left, on its striking hillside, is Claybury, the towers of its asylum rubricated in the warm glow of the afternoon sun until they take on a glory like that of a New Jerusalem.